關於 boulangerie' in english ，我們在網路上蒐集到這些相關的討論、資訊與評價

[聯合好評 / udn.com 聯合新聞網 Column] 甜點——日常裡的奢華 / French pastries, affordable luxury in everyday life (English below)

你看了「Emily in Paris」（艾蜜莉在巴黎）嗎？這齣 Netflix 最新的原創劇集，最近在網路世界引起了巨大的討論，在法國更是招來排山倒海的批評、讓法國人集體不適，諸如「#必須要是科幻片影迷才看得下去」、「#編劇連最小的cliché都不放過」等評論以及無數迷因梗圖流傳。不過，那些讓法國人認為「#被侮辱了」的刻板印象，卻在許多「住巴黎的外國人」群組中引起大量共鳴，譬如 #被麵包店老闆娘糾正法文幾乎是普世經驗（第一集的劇情之一）。

不過，無論巧克力麵包是「un」pain au chocolat 還是「une」pain au chocolat（陰陽性的量詞差別）或甚至「pain au chocolat」與「chocolatine」的差別（巧克力麵包的南北之爭），看看艾蜜莉吃完的表情就知道，這個隨處可見、法國人早餐桌上不可少的巧克力酥皮麵包，也能夠和名牌包一樣銷魂。而法國人如何將「#甜點的平價奢華」概念極大化發展、更因此將甜點主廚帶至鎂光燈下？點連結看全文！

Have you watched "Emily in Paris" yet? This latest Netflix series is making a huge buzz recently, especially among French viewers, who find it full of clichés and stereotypes that makes them uneasy. However, many expats in Paris find a lot to relate to in this comedy, such as...having their French corrected by the vendeuse in a boulangerie while going on a bread run. Well, no matter it's "un" or "une" pain au chocolat (or even une chocolatine instead!) , this extremely ordinary yet popular pastry serves as a great example of "affordable luxury" in daily life. Check the following link and read the full post to get to know how French pâtissiers play on this and how this concept have bring them under the spotlight.

#yingspastryguide #yingc #painauchocolat #chocolatine #EmilyInParis

[OKAPI Column / 博客來OKAPI 專欄] 法國人究竟有多愛吃甜點？原來餐後六道還不夠！/ How important are desserts and pastries to the French? 6 desserts are not enough? (English below)

只要是人都難以抗拒甜味帶來的愉悅感，而在甜點文化高度發展的法國又是什麼情形呢？很多人覺得法國人就是螞蟻，但他們可不是只要甜味就好，而是想盡辦法將甜食精緻化、發展出令人目不暇給的選擇。法國甚至曾經由國王下令，禁止餐後甜點超過六道。

另外，明明大家都愛甜點，為什麼甜點卻更經常和女性特質連在一起呢？點連結一起看看那些口嫌體正直的法國美食家是怎麼面對自己內心的慾望、又害怕被別人發現的！

*****
The pleasure sweetness brings to us is definitely one of the most difficult things to resist for human beings. But how much is enough? Do you know that Charles IX once forbade the rich to have more than 6 desserts after a meal? How important exactly are desserts and pastries to the French?

Since the love for sweetness seems no different for both sexes, have you ever wondered why such passion is constantly associated with females while chefs are, overwhelmingly, males? Click on the following link to discover more (in Chinese).

#yingspastryguide

[Paris pastry shop / 巴黎甜點店] Philippe Conticini 主廚的 Gâteaux d’émotions 新店開幕與簡短訪問 / Opening of Gâteaux d’émotions in Paris 16e & short interview with the chef Philippe Conticini (English below)

Philippe Conticini 主廚的麵包甜點店 Gâteaux d’émotions 在 16 區開幕，這是他巴黎三家、東京兩家店中第一家販賣麵包與維也納麵包類商品的店鋪、也是巴黎唯一一家在店內就有廚房能生產製作的店家（其他商店由中央廚房生產商品後供應）。去年已經在〈高貴的日常—麵包成為巴黎時尚新寵〉一文中，與大家分享過 #麵包在巴黎重新受到注目的趨勢，現在越來越多甜點主廚們也加入戰局，想必未來會相當精彩，一般的街坊麵包店可能也會開始感覺到一些壓力。

Philippe Conticini 主廚與過去曾自行開業、也曾在上海藍帶學院擔任講師的 Sébastien Crouzat 主廚合作，推出一系列的麵包，包括長棍麵包、鄉村麵包、黑麥麵包與各種維也納麵包等。這家位於 16 區的店面處於一條繁華的商店街上（42 Rue de l’Annonciation, 75016 Paris），平日人潮熙來攘往，未來也即將推出適合午餐時間的三明治等商品。

本次重點除了品嚐麵包之外，還有 Conticini 主廚歷經兩年時間研發出的蛋糕捲。雖然是受到日本蛋糕捲的啟發，但主廚特別強調這和日本蛋糕捲完全不同。他觀察到日本人喜歡的蛋糕質地非常柔軟濕潤、像海綿一般，但「這不是歐洲人的口味」，他的蛋糕捲用了比較少的蛋與蛋黃、多了一些水分，質地較日本蛋糕捲酥鬆、更易融於口（fondant）。

Philippe Conticini 主廚是巴黎甜點界非常重要的人物，輩份和 Pierre Hermé 主廚相當，是知名的「Pâtisserie des Rêves」（夢幻甜點店）創始人之一，我也曾經在〈法國甜點大師群像〉專欄中介紹過他。當天他人在現場，我抓緊機會請教了一些我一直很關注、目前飲食界也很感興趣的問題。雖然有些問題和開幕主題無關，但主廚仍然很親切地為我解說：

Q：您曾經出版過一本《無糖甜點》食譜書（原文書名為《Gâteaux et gourmandises sans sucre》），請問您 #怎麼看待現今甜點減糖的潮流呢？您是不是也認為目前消費者越來越追求「健康的甜點」？

A：我認為大家被誤導了。的確現代消費者越來越希望品嚐到更為健康的甜點、減糖也是趨勢，但是 #我不認為甜點應該要不甜或無糖。我們為什麼要吃甜點，就是因為甜味帶來的愉悅感，凡事都應該講求平衡。重點並不是「糖是不好的東西」，而在於「#我們該如何攝取糖」。

Q：您怎麼看待 #純素（#vegan）的甜點呢？

A：我曾經品嚐過 Michaël Bartocetti 主廚（現任 Four Seasons Hotel George V, Paris）的純素甜點，真的非常了不起，好吃得不得了，不論技術、外型還是口味都無懈可擊。但每個人有自己風格，#製作純素甜點不是我個人想做的。

Q：對您來說，甜點最重要的是味道，那您是否不關心外型呢？

A：外型也是重要的，#美味跟美麗的外表都是對製作甜點來說重要的考量因素。但是我不會刻意雕琢外型，（指著桌上的蛋糕捲）你看這個蛋糕捲，完全沒有裝飾，但是味道完完全全是我想要的樣子，我花了兩年的時間研究。它很好吃，大家都會忍不住再來一塊（又拿了一塊，並示意我也再吃一塊）。

Q：您的甜點是不是也沒有使用任何色素呢？

A：對，我的作品幾乎都沒有使用任何色素，像這個蛋糕捲甚至完全是裸露的。我們要思考「#為什麼要使用色素」。

雖然主廚的回答很簡短，但卻非常切中核心，許多觀點都值得大家思考。接下來就請點開照片一ㄧ欣賞該店商品！

*****
The chef Philippe Conticini opened his 3rd “Gâteaux d’émotions" boutique in the 16th arrondissement in Paris. This is the first boutique among all his boutiques (in Paris & Tokyo) that offers a full bread & viennoiserie product line and the first one in Paris with a kitchen behind so that on-spot fabrication is available. I have talked about in my previous article “Bread is a Rising Star in Paris” that bread is now under the spotlight and the boom of new style bakeries. Many pastry chefs have apparently noticed the trend and are now trying to catch up, take Cédric Grolet for example. As the line separating a boulangerie and a pâtisserie gets blurred even with regard to high end brands, I’m very looking forward to future innovations and cross-disciplinary collaborations.

The chef Philippe Conticini has invited Sébastien Crouzat, former owner of his own bakery and chef boulanger at Le Cordon Bleu Shanghai, to create a complete range of bread for this Gâteaux d’émotions boutique (now Pain d’émotions as well), such as baguettes, country breads, rye bread, viennoiseries, etc. Situated on 42 rue de l’Annonciation, a busy street full of shops and restaurants, this bakery will soon offer sandwiches and other savoury goods for lunch time.

Besides the bread, the chef Conticini has also launched a Japan-inspired rolled cake. The chef has spent 2 years to create a recipe that is much more “fondant” (easy to melt in the mouth) than its Japanese cousin, which is extremely soft, moist and spongy. Less eggs, yolks and more liquid are used. The chef has emphasised that “it is exactly how I want it”.

Internationally renowned and respected just as Pierre Hermé, Philippe Conticini is a great French pastry chef that has co-founded Pâtisseries des Rêves (closed permanently). I’ve introduced him in my “French pastry chef portraits” column several years ago but had not had chance talking to him personally until that day. I asked several questions related to topics that I’m really interested in and the chef was very kind to share with me his ideas:

Q: You’ve published a book "Gâteaux et gourmandises sans sucre” ("Sugar-free Cakes and Delicacies”) before, I wonder how you think about the current trend of pastries with “less sugar”? Have you also found that consumers nowadays are looking for “healthier” pastries?

A: I think people are misled (with regard to the sugar-free concept). It’s true that consumers are looking for healthier pastries, and less sugar is the trend, but I don’t think we should promote sugar-free pastries. The reason why people are having pastries or desserts is because we’re looking for “pleasure”. Sugar is not a bad thing, what’s important is the way we consume it and how we have a balance on everything in life.

Q: What’s your opinions on vegan pastries?

A: I’ve tasted the vegan pastries made by the chef Michael Bartocetti (head pastry chef of Four Seasons Hotel George V Paris and I really loved them. They were fantastic in terms of skills, appearance and taste. But everyone’s got his way and style. Vegan pastries are not my thing.

Q: “Taste” is the most important thing for you when making pastries, what do you think about the visual appearance of pastries? Is it less important?

A: Visual appearance is important as well! Both good taste and beautiful look matter when it comes to make pastries, but I don’t focus on making things beautiful. You see this rolled cake? There’s no decoration at all, but the taste is just how I want it. I spent two years on achieving this status. It’s really delicious and no one can resist having another slice.

Q: Do you not use colorants on your pastries?

A: That’s right. I hardly use any colorants on my pastries. Take this cake for example, it’s plain and naked. We should reflect on the question “why we need to use colorants”.

These are short answers, they’re very much to the point. Hopefully they’re as inspiring for you! Don’t forget to click on the photos and have a closer look on what the chef has to offer!

🔖 You might also be interested:

My pastries tell who I am: Philippe Conticini: https://tinyurl.com/trh23u2

Bread is a rising star: https://tinyurl.com/t8bn8cj

🔖 延伸閱讀：

我的甜點說明我是誰 － Philippe Conticini：https://tinyurl.com/trh23u2

高貴的日常 － 麵包成為巴黎時尚新寵：https://tinyurl.com/t8bn8cj

#yingspastryguide #pastrychef #philippeconticini #gateauxdemotions

(for English, please click "see more")

巴黎雅典娜廣場飯店麵包主廚 Guillaume Cabrol 本週末（9月14日、15日）在 Fou de Pâtisserie 向大眾介紹他的維也納麵包作品。他在影片中和台灣的讀者們介紹自己與本次活動的起源 —— 他的「100% 巧克力麵包」（在 Fou de Pâtisserie 第 37 期第 93 至 98 頁有詳細說明與食譜）。

雅典娜廣場飯店是巴黎極少數擁有自己麵包烘焙坊的飯店之一，Guillaume 主廚也是極少數巴黎宮殿級酒店（palace）中的麵包主廚。不過隨著「麵包」越來越紅，也許接下來我們會看見各飯店在麵包研發與行銷上投注更多心力。

? 延伸閱讀：

? 法式甜點關鍵詞 － 甜點與麵包的分界：https://tinyurl.com/y4cg9uhd

? 高貴的日常 － 麵包成為巴黎時尚新寵：https://tinyurl.com/y3o5g399

? 專訪 Fou de Pâtisserie 雜誌總編輯與創辦人 Julie Mathieu：https://tinyurl.com/y4zus2u9（上）、https://tinyurl.com/y2vkah9w（下）


Guillaume Cabrol, head pastry chef of Hotel Plaza Athénée is presenting his viennoiseries at the Fou de Pâtisserie boutique this weekend (14-15 September). He explains in this short video how the idea of the event is originated and how exclusive it is for a palace hotel to own its own bakery.

Hotel Plaza Athénée is one of the very few Parisian palaces that owns their own bakery. The chef Guillaume is also one the few head bakery chefs in palaces. But as "bread" and "bread bakery" (boulangerie) seem to become more and more popular in recent years, we might witness mounting efforts and investment in this discipline.

? You might be interested also:

? French pastry keywords - The fine line between pâtisserie and boulangerie: https://tinyurl.com/y4cg9uhd

? Bread is a rising star in Paris: https://tinyurl.com/y3o5g399

? Interview with Julie Mathieu, co-founder and editor in chief of Fou de Pâtisserie: https://tinyurl.com/y4zus2u9 (part 1), https://tinyurl.com/y2vkah9w (part 2)

Music: Au Cinema
Url: https://icons8.com/music/

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