關於 ritz paris restaurant ，我們在網路上蒐集到這些相關的討論、資訊與評價

快訊！ Alain Ducasse 集團 Ducasse Paris宣布與 Hotel Plaza Athenee #終止合作關係。

News - Alain Ducasse group announced the cease of collaboration with Hotel Plaza Athénée.

前陣子法國媒體已有消息傳出，豪華旅館集團 Dorchester Collection 即將終止與 Alain Ducasse 在巴黎 Hotel Plaza Athénée 的合作，中間一度更傳出連另一個宮殿級酒店 Le Meurice 也會不保。昨日宣布的消息中，則確定只有 Hotel Plaza Athénée 的合作關係將於 6 月 30 日終止不再續約，但已為巴黎美食圈投下重量級震撼彈。

Alain Ducasse 與 Dorchester Collection 的合作已逾 20 年，除了在 Plaza Athénée 的餐廳目前擁有米其林三星外，於倫敦的 Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester 也同樣擁有三星、巴黎的 Le Meurice Alain Ducasse 則為二星。

Alain Ducasse 在 Plaza Athénée 的餐廳是他自然派料理哲學的實驗場，餐點特色強調呈現食材原味，特別是平日不是主角的酸、苦味，和大眾習慣不同，引起諸多討論。本次終止合作關係自然引起許多揣測，據傳 Le Meurice 也有可能在接下來的一兩年內與 Alain Ducasse 停止合作，但 AD 也可能轉戰 Ritz 酒店。之前我為大家專訪過的 Jessica Préalpato 主廚即為 Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée 的甜點主廚，其甜點創作正是服膺 AD 的自然派哲學；而以水果雕塑全球知名的 Cédric Grolet 主廚，也已在 Le Meurice 和 AD 合作多年。Jessica 與 Cédric 分別在 2019 與 2018 年由 The World's 50 Best Restaurants 選為當年度全球最佳甜點主廚（The World's Best Pastry Chef）。

目前的繼任人選極可能是2012 年 Top Chef 贏家、在媒體有極高曝光率，年紀還不到 40 歲的 Jean Imbert（也是 Qui sera le prochain grand pâtissier? 第四季的主持人）。

法國專業餐飲媒體 Atabula 表示，這次的事件很可能會是象徵著法國美食圈翻轉的重要歷史，這顯示「高級餐廳將讓位給新概念」（il y a tout lieu de penser que le restaurant gastronomique disparaitrait pour laisser place à un nouveau concept.），且屬於「近來巴黎宮殿級酒店餐廳『去高級美食化』」的普遍潮流（Un choix qui s’inscrirait dans une tendance générale à la « dégastronomisation » des tables de palaces à Paris.）。

Atabula 另有一篇評論文章指出，法國創造出的「chef consultant」（顧問主廚） 職位經過超過百年的發展後，不可避免需因應時代潮流而改變。宮殿級酒店的米其林星星競賽時代，或將隨著餐飲文化的改變走向終局；年輕的「Top Chef」世代、擅長藉著上相的餐點表達自己的主廚們，以及「street food」的利基市場等的發展勢頭將逐漸增強。

🔖 延伸閱讀：

Alain Ducasse 正式宣布與 Plaza Athénée 終止合作關係：https://tinyurl.com/4wd52b4m

從 Jessica Préalpato 獲得 2019 年「全球最佳甜點主廚」談餐飲評鑑與名氣的兩面性：https://tinyurl.com/kp6fxfup

以未經雕琢的水果甜點實踐自然派革命 － 全球最佳甜點主廚 Jessica Préalpato：https://tinyurl.com/49sxtwmp

締造時代傳說 － Cédric Grolet 主廚：https://tinyurl.com/a7dba3ym

#yingc #AlainDucasse #PlazaAthenee #DorchesterCollection #餐飲新聞 #法國 #米其林

[Books / 書訊] Yann Brys 與 François Perret 主廚出版新書、 Fou de Pâtisserie 食譜書將出中文版 / Chef Yann Brys and François Perret publish their first books, Fou de Pâtisserie book launch traditional Chinese version soon (for English, please click “see more”)

我想法國主廚們跟書商完全沒有要讓消費者喘口氣的意思，11 月好書連發，最近輪到陀飛輪（tourbillon）創始人、擁有法國最佳工藝職人（MOF）頭銜的 Yann Brys 主廚和巴黎麗池酒店 Ritz Paris 的主廚 François Perret 出新書；甜點雜誌 Fou de Pâtisserie 去年出版的同名食譜書也確認即將推出中文版。

Yann Brys 主廚過去的資歷顯赫，他師承 MOF Philippe Urraca、在 FAUCHON 時在有「甜點小王子」之稱的主廚 Sébastien Gaudard Pâtissier 底下工作，接著經歷巴黎數個豪華酒店，包括宮殿級酒店（palace）的 Hotel Le Bristol Paris，然後前往 DALLOYAU。他在 2009 年發展了現在聞名世界的「陀飛輪」擠花手法，2011 年通過一系列的嚴格比賽與鑑定、獲得法國最佳工藝職人的頭銜，並在同年被任命為 Dalloyau 的創意總監。Yann Brys 主廚在這本即將在 11/27 上市的書中分享了以陀飛輪手法裝飾的多種蛋糕、還有其他或經典或創新的精彩作品。

現任 Ritz 酒店甜點主廚的 François Perret 的經歷也不遑多讓，他幾乎在巴黎所有宮殿級酒店都工作過，一開始在 Le Meurice、接著在 Four Seasons Hotel George V Paris，然後在 Hotel Lancaster Paris 擔任甜點主廚。2010 年他協助巴黎香格里拉飯店 Shangri-La Hotel, Paris 開幕，並很快幫後者的 L’Abeille 餐廳取得米其林二星。接著他加入 Ritz，這個歷經四年整修的巴黎傳奇宮殿級酒店在他與主廚 Nicolas Sale Officiel 的協力合作下，一年之後便分別為酒店內的兩個餐廳取得米其林二星（La Table d'Espadon）與一星（Les Jardins d'Espadon），他和 Nicolas Sale 也分別奪下 2017 年由《Le Chef》雜誌頒發的年度甜點主廚與年度主廚獎項。上月 François Perret 主廚再獲肯定，被 Les Grandes Tables du Monde 協會選為「meilluer pâtissier de restaurant du monde」（「全球最佳餐廳甜點主廚」）。如同書名「Instants sucrés au Ritz Paris」指明的，本書是以「Rtiz 的甜點時光」規劃，從早餐、午餐、下午茶、晚餐等都有相應的作品。François 主廚的的知名創作如瑪德蓮蛋糕、蜂蜜等都收錄其中。另外有一個好消息要跟台灣讀者分享，本書的繁體中文版已經被 大境文化&出版菊文化(生活美食地圖) 簽下，大家再稍等一下就能看到囉！

最後則是甜點雜誌 Fou de Pâtisserie 去年十月出版的同名食譜書，近日剛剛發表了德文版，同時也宣布簡體和繁體中文版即將推出。這是一本想要認識法式甜點經典、同時一覽法國主廚們各種精彩重新詮釋版本的讀者們必定要收藏的作品。書中精選了 17 種最經典的法式甜點，如 Baba 巴巴、Opéra 歌劇院蛋糕、Saint-Honoré 聖多諾黑泡芙、Tarte au citron 檸檬塔等，每個主題前先解釋該甜點的起源、並以詳細的步驟圖介紹一個最具代表性的作品，接著介紹該甜點的重要組成元素、然後呈現四五個不同的變化版本（全部由知名主廚提供），最後提供一個能夠使用市售商品與簡便方法，在家快速重現經典的食譜。能夠一次飽覽當代最知名的40 位甜點主廚們的作品、領略法式甜點不斷推陳出新的活力，大概也只有 Fou de Pâtisserie 可以辦到。

以下就請大家點開照片、也開始存錢準備囉😆👇🏻

🔖 延伸閱讀：

甜點食譜書推薦與介紹：#yingsbookreviews

法式甜點經典重生、歷久彌新的秘訣——「重新詮釋」：https://tinyurl.com/y5xenfqz

如何鑑賞 François Perret 主廚的瑪德蓮蛋糕？https://tinyurl.com/y54dacbu

巴黎麗池酒店下午茶體驗：https://tinyurl.com/v4hqj5g

深度專訪 Fou de Pâtisserie 創辦人與總編輯 Julie Mathieu：https://tinyurl.com/vss89b3

*****
This November is marked by beautiful pastry recipe books. If you still remember that we’ve talked about the books of the chef Yann Couvreur, Angelo Musa, and Michelin Guide, now there’re some more! The MOF chef Yann Brys and François Perret, head pastry chef of Ritz Paris are publishing their books this week as well. Moreover, Fou de Pâtisserie has just announced that their great recipe book is going to have its traditional and simplified Chinese versions soon.

Even if you don’t know the chef Yann Brys, you must recognise his world-renowned gesture “tourbillon” still, a technique to pipe cream on a turntable to create a whirl effect. He learnt a wide range of skills from another MOF chef Philippe Urraca, and then worked with Sébastien Gaudard, the “petit prince de la pâtisserie” when he was at Fauchon. He then went through several luxury hotels such as Concorde Lafayette (current Hyatt Regency Paris Étoile) and Hotel Bristol Paris. After that he joined Dalloyau and was named the Creative Director in 2011. He passed through a series of competitions and got his MOF title the same year. In this book “Tourbillon”, the chef shares with us lots of beautiful cakes employing the technique and his other creations as well as the know-how as a Meilleur Ouvrier de France.

Having worked at most of the Parisian palace hotels, François Perret, current chef pâtissier of Ritz Paris also boasts impressive experiences at Le Meurice, George V before he was appointed as the head pastry chef at Hotel Lancaster Paris. He joined Shangri-La Paris in 2010, assisting its opening and contributing to the Michelin two stars gained in two years for L’Abeille, the fine-dining restaurant at the hotel. He then joined Ritz and has been collaborating with the chef Nicolas Sale ever since. The legendary hotel situated on Place Vendôme reopened in 2016 after 4 years of renovation, but the duo has gained the hotel 3 Michelin stars in total in just a year - La Table d’Espadon got two stars and Les Jardin d’Espadon got 1 star in 2017. The both were further awarded as “Pastry chef of the year” and “Chef of the year” by the magazine “Le Chef” in the same year. François was elected as “Best restaurant pastry chef of the world 2019” last month by Grandes Tables du Monde. The book “Instant sucrés au Ritz Paris” presents those sweet moments offered by the hotel, starting from breakfast, wonderful pastries and desserts served in lunch time, tea time, and on dinner tables are all included. The chef’s signature desserts like the entremets Madeleine, Miel, Île flottante are also covered. Good news is that both the English and traditional Chinese version of the book are on their way. English and Chinese-speaking readers will only need to be patient for little while to learn more about the sweet universe of the chef.

Last but not least, the Fou de Pâtisserie book published last October is now having its German version. The traditional and simplified Chinese versions will be available soon, too. Collaborating with 40 great French pastry chefs, this book offers pastry passionates a wonderful opportunity to learn about those great French classics as well as their creative variations. 17 classic like baba au rhum, Opera, Saint-Honoré cakes, etc are presented. Their origins and legends are well explained, followed by a signature recipe illustrated step-by-step and presented by one famous chef, followed by four to five variations with real recipes provided by influential chefs. Then finally an express version using existing products sold in shops or supermarkets is featured. This is a fantastic book to glance through some of the best creations of our time and to learn the spirit of creation.

Click on the following photos to have a closer look!

🔖 You might also be interested:

More book reviews: #yingsbookreviews

Revisiting classics, the fountain-of-youth secret of French pastries: https://tinyurl.com/y5xenfqz

How to appreciate French pastries (with an example of the “Madeleine” of the chef François Perret): https://tinyurl.com/y54dacbu

Tea time at Ritz Paris: https://tinyurl.com/v4hqj5g

Interview with Julie Mathieu, founder and editor in chief of Fou de Pâtisserie: https://tinyurl.com/vss89b3

#yingc #françoisperret #yannbrys #foudepâtisserie

[Keywords / #法式甜點關鍵詞] 為什麼法式甜點需要鑑賞？ / Why "tasting" is needed when we enjoy french pastries? (for English, please click "see more")

「吃東西就好好吃、幹嘛搞那麼複雜？」、「法式甜點難道比其他甜點高級？幹嘛要知道那麼多？」、「好吃就好了，知道更多難道它會變得更好吃嗎？」你是不是也有相同的疑問呢？今天就讓我們用 #詳細案例解析與書籍介紹 來回答這些問題吧！

📌 #吃與品嚐的差別：

「動物求飽足而人類吃東西，但唯有智者才懂得怎麼吃。」

👉👉 來看看創立世界第一個美食評鑒（可不是米其林喔！）、為品嚐美食寫了一整本探討「味覺」對生理產生的影響、甚至連「美食家」都有至少四個不同單字代表的法國人怎麼說！

📌 #飲食是瞭解人和瞭解異文化的途徑：

「告訴我你吃什麼，我就知道你是怎麼樣的人。」

👉👉 你知道在法國，「開心果與覆盆子」、「鳳梨與茉莉花茶」、「熱帶水果與芫荽」是非常常見的甜點口味組合嗎？如果不了解經典甜點的結構組成，又怎麼能看懂創作者在哪裡做了變化、哪裡是原創、哪裡是傳統、哪裡又是從別人那裡得到的靈感與借鏡？

📌 #品味甜點就是藝術鑑賞：

「餐桌是唯一一個在開頭一小時內絕對不會讓人感到無聊的地方。」

👉👉 如果在一小時之後你還感到無聊，那一定是甜點還沒上桌的緣故！

點開連結，讓我們一起進入法式甜點迷人多彩的世界！

（本文提到的幾本重要書籍皆有中譯本，有興趣的讀者不用懂法文、在台灣也能欣賞！）

*****

"Let's just eat, why making it so complicated?",
"Are French pastries 'more premium' than pastries from other countries or cultures? Why do we need to know that much?",
"It's alright as long as it tastes good! Would it taste better if we know more about it?"

Have you ever posed questions like the above? Let's have a look and try to answer them today!

📌 The difference between "eating" and "tasting":

"Animals feed themselves; men eat; but only wise men know the art of eating."

👉👉 The French have created the world's first food and restaurant guide, wrote a whole book meditating on the influences of taste on human physiology, such as sleep, dreams, sex, and even death; they have at least four different words referring to a foodie. Let's have a look on what they say about "tasting".

📌 Through food and eating, we get to know people and foreign cultures:

"Tell me what kind of food you eat, and I will tell you what kind of man you are."

👉👉 Do you know in France, the match between pistachio and raspberries, pineapples and jasmine tea, and tropical fruits and coriander are very common? If you have no idea on the composition and essentials of classics, how would you know the original ideas, modifications, as well as the inspirations the chef has drawn from elsewhere?

📌 Pastry and dessert tasting is an art and aesthetic experience:

"The table is the only place where one does not suffer, from ennui during the first hour."

👉👉 If you feel bored after the first hour, this must be the fact that desserts are not served yet.

Click on the following link and let's dive into the wonderful world of French pastries!

#yingspastryguide #frenchpastrykeywords #dégustation #tasting 三采文化Suncolor 時報出版 馬可孛羅文化 Ritz Paris François Perret Four Seasons Hotel George V Paris Maxime Frederic