---想到我們啜著咖啡竟喝下了那樣複雜的過往,難怪這杯滋味無窮。---
亞力山大書店咖啡廳 Alexander Book Cafe
有別於巴洛克繁複雕飾的紐約咖啡廳(請參考前兩次發文),亞力山大書店咖啡廳感覺較為方正,天花板中央的壁畫也令人容易聚焦。根據小管的解讀壁畫中王座上的女子應當是受匈牙利人民愛戴的伊莉莎白皇后(Sisi) 在布達佩斯加冕畫像。
Much different from onerously decorated New York Cafe in baroque style (please see my previous post), Alexandr Book Cafe contains a more square look. The focus is on the center piece painting. My interpretation of the theme of the painting is about the scene of the beloved Habsburg queen Sisi's coronation in Budapest.
在這喝咖啡感覺比紐約咖啡廳更寬闊,因為挑高的空間裡沒有柱子。文藝復興的裝飾也較符合店名的書香氣息。雖然限時一小時的享用時間,但我們也確實將近兩小時才離開。
Having coffee here, you feel roomier with a high ceiling and no columns. The renaissance decor matches better with the bookshop underneath. Although we were given one hour to enjoy our visit, it had been almost 2 hours by the time we were ready to leave.
想到全世界前十大最美的咖啡廳有兩家就在布達佩斯,不禁令我想追究這裡精緻的咖啡文化從何而來?我試著摸索脈絡從數個導覽中找尋答案。結論主要是和奧圖曼帝國來襲以及共黨垮台兩個事件相關。
When I think about two of the world most beautiful cafes being located in Budapest, it makes me wonder how this refined coffee culture came around. I tried to figure things out from a few walking tours I took during this trip. I conclude that two particular events are the major causes---the invasion of Ottoman Empire and the collapse of communist authority.
奧圖曼帝國於15、16世紀橫掃歐陸。土耳其人帶來了影響全世界的綠色豆子---咖啡豆。也許咖啡的提神作用就是奧圖曼帝國驍勇善戰的秘訣之一吧?
The Ottoman Empire swept across the European continent in the 15th and 16th centuries. One of the unexpected influences of the Turkish troops is the little green beans which is also known as coffee beans. Perhaps, those caffeinated green beans are the secret to the troops' prowess in various battles.
其二是匈牙利的共黨並不像毛澤東提倡的文化大革命那樣將一切過去給摧毀殆盡。當1990年共黨垮台,資本主義者大批搶食這個百廢待舉的市場。首當其衝的就是被外資買下的眾多過往輝煌的房地產。華麗的資本主義與四面八方湧入的遊客一拍即合。結果造就了一幢幢美侖美奐的咖啡廳。
Furthermore, Hungarian communist party did not advocate a destructive movement like Mao's cultural revolution to China. When the communist party stepped down in 1990, a large number of capitalists flanked in to the Hungarian market. The number one target was the frantically purchased local real estate market. The flamboyant capitalism hit it off perfectly with tourist coming from all over the world. The result is various astonishing coffee shops.
想到我們啜著咖啡竟喝下了那樣複雜的過往,難怪這杯滋味無窮。
After I realized that the coffee we sipped contained that much of complexity, no wonder it was full of rich tastes.
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